There are certain wine communities around the world where the key players share the same last name. A good example is in the Barolo region of Italy, where you can hardly swing a cat without hitting someone with the surname of Conterno. Giacomo Conterno, Aldo Conterno, Paolo Conterno, and Diego Conterno and their respective lineages have been key to making Barolo one of the most important wine cities on the planet.

Paolo Conterno’s 2019 Barolo Riva del Bric Barolo is as much of a benchmark wine for Barolo as you’re going to find. “Brooding” and “powerful” are terms that pop up a lot, as do “firm dusty tannins” and “warmth.” All of these descriptors apply here; Paolo Conterno’s Rive del Bric is made from his younger Nebbiolo vines (still all fully mature 25 to 35 years old) and with an invigorating freshness.

You usually see Barolo being served in the US alongside food, ideally some sort of big meat that’s been roasted, grilled, or braised over live fire (although it’s pretty terrific accompanying a bowl of white truffle pasta in the early winter). In Piedmont, they’ll suggest Barbera or Dolcetto with the main course; Barolo is considered vini da meditazione, wine to be served between the meat course and dessert, accompanied by some aged Toma cheese, with or without drops of ancient balsamic vinegar. No need to change your plans for when to drink this, as the younger vine-fruit component of this 2019 Paolo Conterno Riva del Bric allows it to show well, whether you opt for the American or Italian preference.